A Pho with a bang, a beer fest and a meal at the 5th sin

Posted: June 17, 2015 in Uncategorized
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PHO BANG NEW YORKPho Bang New York is a very popular Vietnamese Pho destination in Montreal. At their old location, the pho was richer in flavor, more rustic in presentation, the place cramped. They have now moved to a new location, cleaner and spacier, the service is now better and the Pho better adapted to nowadays trends (not greasy as it used to be, more refined in its taste and presentation while remaining tasty). I was not a fan of the old PBNY, but that has changed: their new place deserves its enviable reputation. Do not go there expecting their Pho to be what it cannot be, meaning keep the expectations real (for eg, we are obviously NOT in Vietnam, a Pho that wows is a notion that is utterly personal/subjective, etc ), but by Vietnamese Pho standards in Montreal, this is one Pho by which I’ll judge the other Phos in town.

*MONDIAL DE LA BIEREThe Mondial de la Bière  took place at the Palais des Congres. I tried La Pitoune (www.troududiable.com) from Shawinigan  / the Imperiale Ale (Brasserie les Deux Freres), the Houblon libre (Micro Brasserie du Lac St Jean), a white wine from Les boissons du Roy, called sa Majesté (my coup de coeur of this fest), L’Église Noire ( Microbrasserie Kruhnen). Clearly, Quebec offers some world class beers and that white wine dazzled.

PROS: the variety of beers, obviously

CONS: One can argue that paying, on average, $4 for a glass of 3oz of beer is hard to understand, especially given that such event is an opportunity for those merchants  to be ‘visible’ to the most,….

AU 5E PECHEAu Cinquième Péché (Translation: At the 5th sin) http://www.aucinquiemepeche.com/stdenis/  is a long time favourite bistrot. It has been a while since I last ate there, but with the beautiful sun out I went back and sat on their terrace.

I ordered:

AU 5E PECHE3Demi homard de Gaspésie, lard confit, polenta, , tomates confites – the lobster poached as I like it, meaning cooked to tender consistency while boasting necessary chew, polenta as fine as a properly executed polenta would taste and look like the ingredients of good quality as it has always been the case here. It is unfair that someone who swears only by the spiny lobsters of the Caribbean and the Indian Ocean (my case) –I am not talking about the frozen spinies that are sold at the super market, obviously, but of fresh spinies — would start telling you how he was not that impressed with  lobsters from colder waters as my perceived (as ever, such things are purely mental as,using the poaching or the boiling methods, unless the crustacean was snatched from the floor of the ocean just moments ago, is hardly the best way to compare the taste of crustaceans that are actually not even from the same species) superiority of one lobster over the other is just that .. personal/subjective (my palate just perceives tails from cold water lobsters, that is not grilled, as less tasty), so it would make no sense for me to assess this dish.

AU 5E PECHE2Terrine de foie gras. The terrine properly executed by classic French terrine standards, the fruity elements fine enough rather than dazzling (I have no clue how they did their confit, but I prefer a confit that tastes more of the natural sweetness of the fruit, whereas this tasted more of granulated sugar– again,not a fault, just what a matter of personal taste) , though, to be fair, the effort to make a fruit confit complex and dazzling is what I am expecting on a fine dining table, not really at a bistrot, but of course…dazzling it can also be at a bistrot. 7/10

-Deconstructed choco / lemon tart comprised of a tiny block of choco (good rather than great, for ie properly rendered, tasting fine, just not as exciting as some examples of deconstructed choco tarts I had at other bistrots), lemon cream (the best element of this dessert). I would take a classic choco or lemon tart, anytime, over this one. 6/10

In fine, I was not floored on this evening but there is nothing to reproach to Au 5e Péché neither: it is obviously not their fault if I perceive spiny lobsters as better than any other types of lobster. I did argue that the deconstructed lemon / choco tart could have been more exciting (to make it more sinful ;p), but here again…it boils down to what you are looking for, not necessarily to what is right or wrong: you prefer a choco tart with dark choco or not? You like the choco tart richer in taste or not ?Etc. As always, the cooking is consistently of reliable French bistrot standing at Au Cinquième Péché. The rare times I heard harsh comments on this place (I always read online reviews/comments on a place whenever I decide to visit it or revisit it), it was generally a matter of misunderstanding (For eg, diners assessing inaccurately textures and temperatures only because they basically are not familiar with what needs to be expected from certain type of food items based on some original French bistrots recipes – though, Au Cinquième Péché is not limited to French bistrot staples as they also cook North American bistrot food items). At least, with such a skilled kitchen, it can dazzle at times as proven on my last meal there (click here for that review ), and even on the evening of my visit, there is no doubt in my mind that I could have made better choices: the meat of Maitre Boucher Marchand du Bourg features on their menu in the form of a deluxe hamburger, the veal tongue / the sweetbreads (which have always been great here), the other daily offerings, etc.

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