This review of restaurant Park (Addr: 378 Victoria Ave, Westmount, QC; Phone:514-750-7534) completes my recent reviews of some of the best —- according to our local foodie experts (major local food journalists, major local foodie websites) —- sushis of Montreal. The other two sushi spots that are highly regarded by those sources and that I have reviewed are Jun I and Sushi Yumi.
Antonio Park is the most talked about restaurateur and chef of our local restaurant scene. I discovered his work years ago when he was at Kaizen. At Park, he offers his take on contemporary cosmopolitan cuisine that is influenced by Japan (non traditional sushi, sort of kaiseki) as well as his Korean/Latin American background (the ingredients he does use, his takes on some korean staples).
I ordered the Omakase, which, on the evening of my visit, did consist of 5 courses (if I’d choose the duck magret) or 6 courses (option of the sushi instead of the duck magret).
The menu has appetizers such as park style sashimi, nigiri, green salad, asian salad, 2 oz Japanese kobe beef, charcoal grill albacore sashimi, miso soup, edamame. The list of Mains goes like this: park bowl (either with chicken or salmon), Jap Chae, sashimi moriawase, nigiri moriawase, etc
Mushroom shitake broth, ordinary shrimp – Between a glass of water and what I was having, I would opt for the glass of water. There was really nothing going on here, no taste, no depth, nothing. I have been dazzled, in the past, elsewhere by similar broths, and this one was a world away from those. The only pleasant feature being the dinnerware the broth was served in. 0/10
Scallops, shiso, kombu / tosaka algae with a tempura made of the mantle of the scallop (braised, then fried) – Fine raw scallop from Boston, properly cooked tempura, properly done salad . Ok 6/10
Nigiris – Usually, I am fonder of the traditional Japanese style sushi, but I knew, coming here, that their sushis are not traditional. Shima aji, akami, yellow tail, tuna, salmon served as toppings to the nigiris. They were seasoned with ecclectic ingredients such as shishito pepper, jalapeno, maple syrup. This was properly done (fish well sliced, the rice and the taste not as great as at, say, a fine sushiya in nearby NYC, but correct for Montreal / the rice not far from body temperature on this visit). When you had tastier sushis of the traditional style, meaning with far less seasonings than these, you leave underwhelmed. Still, above average sushi by Mtl standards , though such feature is really not that hard to achieve. Ok 6/10
Makis (blufin tuna, reduction of maple syrup/soya), filling of cucumber/shiso/tuna. Fine enough. Again, not a maki which souvenir would linger on my mind. Still, above average by the weak standards of Makis in Mtl. Ok 6/10
Hamachi, akami, salmon, tuna albacore with spices of steak – Ok, as Ok sashimi do taste and feel like. Ok is also how I would describe the broth. 6/10
White choco/ raspberry sorbet. Again, just Ok. Ok classic blend of white choco mixed with raspberry. Safe, safe, safe and not what I want to sample at an omakase priced … this high. Ok was, indeed, going to be the recurrent qualification of most of the food items of this meal …but Ok is not what I am looking for when I dine out…Ok? 6/10
Overall food rating: 5.5/10 (Categ: Montreal fine dining standards) – You can’t afford one single 0/10 dish when you are not a world class restaurant. I did not invent that 0/10. Your broth …well, ….water tasted better! Get it? What rating would you give to a dish like that if I was serving you a broth that was less exciting than water??? At L’Arpege, to take an example, they could afford that. They could afford even 2 or 3 dishes like that. Because they have the kind of exceptional skills to wipe off such disappointments. Not you. Antonio (he was not present on that evening) would have definitely lifted up those dishes. Though, even with Antonio, let us get the records straight: Park is no exceptional eatery. That said, this was still a tolerable meal / slightly above average meal… by the weak standards of the majority (there are, of course, some few Japanese artisan Chef restaurants in town that are consistently good, but this time I wanted to focus on what the local experts had for us) of our local Japanese-inspired eateries. “Tolerable” happens to be over flattering in this case. I am generally not a diner who insists on cost performance, as proven elsewhere on this blog ( I have never mentioned cost at L’Arpege or L’Ambroisie, some of world’s most costliest restaurants), but this meal at Park is really way too $$$ for what I was getting (my meal at Hvor did cost way less with far superior cooking and dazzling produce). Meaning that I do not even have to go abroad to realize that this particular omakase is not worthy of the pricetag.
Pros: Service (10/10) was the highlight of this meal. I am usually more into the food than the service, but I definitely know how to appreciate great service and will always take the time to mention it whenever it is the case. Antonio knows how to surround himself with a staff that perfectly balances professionalism and amiability. He did it at Kaizen, he keeps doing it at Park
Cons: A restaurant of this reputation and charging what they are charging should ensure that …when the main Chef is not working, the performance remains worthy of the pricetag.
Bottom line: Montreal is not a sushi destination, we all know that, but the sushi scene used to be way better here back in the days when Mikado/Jun I were in their prime + there was a hole-in-a-wall sushiya on le plateau that was really good by mtl sushi standards. The rational thing to do is to save your money and your time and just go to NYC for your fix of good sushi. At least, there, you will understand where your hard earned money has gone and you will have a good time.