Food assessment is one thing that virtually everyone will tell you that it is easy to do, and yet few are able to do it properly.
Take any write-up of the major food jounalists of this globe: they are able to give a 10/10 to French food, but when it comes to ethnic food, the best they can score ethnic food with is, at best an 8/10.
That is due to a lack of competence: they do not have the proper skills to understand that the best of ethnic food is as great as the best of Western food. Since they do not have the proper skills to understand that, their last resort is the impression that they have of the food they are eating. When you are ignorant and incompetent about something, your way out is to rely on impression. So their impression is that western food is superior, ethnic inferior. They do not do that only with ethnic vs western food.
They extend that incompetence to modern Vs traditional food. Just look at how they are generous in their ratings when they eat something novel. As if traditional food stops being great as soon as they meet modern cuisine.
We are talking here, about the so-called best experts and professionals of food criticism. You can imagine the rest.
As a straightforward answer to the question “is it easy to write reviews”, I think the most accurate answer to that question is this: About anything is easy when it is done without rigor.
If writing about restaurant was just a matter of sitting at a table and contenting myself with describing my food, then I’d not do this.
What attracted me into writing about dining is all the discipline that is involved:
how far can I control my human emotions and judge my food as accurately as possible? How far can I detach mysefl from the surrounding distractions around my meal? How far can I resist to popular perceptions and freely express what’s on my mind (see previous question)?
How far do I know myself to provide opinions on a given type of food: for eg, I sometimes see people judging food that they just don’t like in the first place. That is easy to spot: the person, whatever he or she eats, is never capable of appreciating one single dish of that given type of cuisine. That is absolutely normal: I, too, have some types of food that I just can’t appreciate. What is not normal though is to judge a type of food you can’t like since your perception of it is already biased.
I only review cuisines that I understand and appreciate because I can then accurately tell you which dish I found good or bad.
The cuisines that I do not like, I simply describe them. I do not review them. I patiently wait until I am genuinely familiar, knowledgeable about them before providing my readers with opinions on them.
I also follow very strict practices that I believe are essential for your judgement about food to be accurate such as never eating anything and drinking only flat water within the 4,5 hours leading to a meal that I want to review. It is a nonsense to review a dinner without any ethic, any method, any discipline. But how many food critics do really abide by those fundamental rules…???…Lol.
Event: Lunch at restaurant Le Calandre, Sarmeola di Rubano
When: Saturday, June 16th 2012 12:00
Michelin stars: 3
Type of cuisine: Haute Italian (Mix of Classic & Contemporary)
Addr: Via Liguria, 1 35030 Sarmeola di Rubano, Padova
Phone: 049 635200
Url: https://www.alajmo.it/en/sezione/le-calandre/le-calandre
Overall food performance: 7/10 I am forgiving the ‘just ok’ initial part of this meal, since the ending was so spectacular on this Saturday June 16th 2012 lunch. Based solely on the savouries, I would rate this meal with a 6 over 10 since, although technically flawless, the savory dishes appeared to me as average in light of what I came to expect at this level of dining. But the dessert part was so spectacular and stood as exceptional even by 3 star Michelin standards, thus the extra point. I think 7 over 10 is fair for this overall food performance . It is worth reading the section “What I think months later” (at the bottom of current review) Service: 10/10 A great balance between being professional and yet fun, charming. I find that 3 star Michelin standards of service, tranposed in an Italian context, adds a zest of appeal that I have hard time putting in words. Might be the magic of the gioia di vivere. Overall Dining experience: 8/10 They do a lot to make the dining experience optimal: the decor, the choice of dinnerware , the modern ambience, the fun and playful interraction with the staff. It is amazing how they balance so well the formal (3 star Michelin standads of service and what goes along is respected and fully applied) with the casual (how fun..fun..fun..fun were those folks on this lunch! Amazing). For me, not a benchmark on that aspect (I prefer the grand classic dining experiences), but in total fairness, a very good dining experience (hence my 8/10 mark).
Food rating: Exceptional (10), Excellent (9), Very good (8), Good (7)
Having great ingredients is half the battle, but NOT…the battle: during this lunch, the prime ingredients used for the savoury dishes did not translate into the mouthfeels of bliss they should have been. Furthermore, they would have been standard recipes at a normal 1 star Michelin level, therefore NOT what we should expect at a 3 Michelin star venture. That said, the superb risotto, spectacular sweets and overall charming dining experience were of memorable mention.
INTRO – This concludes an interesting journey of several days in Northern Italy (Lombardy, Veneto, and Liguria). Tiring to say the least, but this is Italy: a borderless ‘open-air candy store’ where everything is tempting. It is, as we all know, one of those rare countries where each parcel of land worths its weight in gold. This is not my first time in Italy, and everytime I visit this country, I regret of not having spent more time.
Gastronomy is, to me, as important as culture, history and architectures. Italy obviously offers plenty of those and this trip was the excuse to enjoy some great food as well as visiting as many historical vestiges as I could in such a short period of time. The dining part (((( I have always paid attention to Michelin starred ventures only in France. Just recently, in Germany. In Italy, I preferred traditional dining destinations of which my long time favourite has been Da Maria ristorante in Zanco Di Villadeati, Piemonte now in good company with my ‘coup de coeur’ of this gourmand week in Northern Italy : A cantina de Mananan in Corniglia – Cinque Terre . This is the first time that I am trying some Michelin star restaurants in Italy)))) of this journey is crazy: quick lunch at 2 star Michelin Trussardi alla Scala in Milan on Wednesday, a big lunch at 3 star Michelin Dal Pescatore in Canneto sull’Oglio on Thursday, a dinner on Tuesday at 3 star Michelin La Pergola in Rome, then a 3.5 hrs fast train to Milan, quick lunch at 2 star Michelin Trussardi alla Scala in Milan on Wednesday, a big lunch at 3 star Michelin Dal Pescatore in Canneto sull’Oglio on Thursday, this Saturday’s lunch at Le Calandre as well as a dinner at the iconic 2 star Michelin Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia in Milan later on, in the evening of that same day.
(for those who may ask: I never review restaurant meals when I am eating with other ppl since I personally find it mannerless to take notes of my meal in such occurence, the only exception is when I dine with my wife since she is supportive of my ideal of knowledge sharing ) . It is absurd to enjoy as many meals in seven days, alongside so many places to visit, but absolutely understandable given the circumstances. I only regret to have missed a dinner at 3 star Osteria Francescana that some of my foodie friends have invited me to partake in. Alas I was just too exhausted and could not make it to Modena.
I came here to Le Calandre because I heard that Chef Massimiliano Alajmo was mastering, to a level that outstands what is usually found at most tables pertaining to this caliber of dining, the aspect of food that I favor the most: unveiling what’s left to be discovered from traditional cuisine. He (Chef Alajmo) is doing it with a fresh new (modern) approach, though: from what I gathered, the cooking techniques are mostly modern, but the intent is to push traditional fares to their contemporary revised versions. In a world where there is a lot of babbling about classic cuisine being boring, you would think that trendy modern cooking would bring the supposedly exciting palatable emotions that comes along, but years after the rise of those novel cooking trends, few modernist Chefs are really capable of offering the true excitement that pertains to the splendid impact that classic food can unleash in skilled hands (the Spaniards remain among the very few whose depth of modern cooking creativity can indeed rise at palatable heights of the fabulous taste of the kind of successful classic cooking that I am praising). So many people are lured by the superficial aspect of food that they can’t even make a difference between an average, above average, superior or excellent straightforward food item such a soup or a tartare. You get the idea: I pushed opened the door to Chef Alajmo’s dining room expecting classic food’s inspired creations to be brought to their glory.
Chef Alajmo was the youngest Chef to have been awarded three Michelin stars for his creations at his restaurant Le Calandre (he still holds those since 2002). He started with some studies in restaurant management, which obviously explains his great business sense with several restaurants, a food store, books, and plenty of other entrepreneurship ideas you will not fail to notice on his web site. Before taking over the kitchen at Le Calandre (a family affair, his mum was the previous Chef there), he worked for several Italian restaurants (for ie, Ja Navalge in Moena) as well as a relatively brief presence alongside France’s star Michelin Chefs Michel Guerard (perhaps the focus on light food that I sensed on most of the dishes during this meal came from here) and Marc Veyrat (It would be interesting that a journalist ask him a bit more about what he thinks of Veyrat and what he learned from that phase – I have always been curious about Veyrat and regret to have never been able to sample his modernist creations when he was actively behind the stoves. I do not know Veyrat so it was impossible for me to identify any Veyrat’s influences all along the meal I was sampling at Le Calandre). Despite his young age, Chef Alajmo has been a mentor to many successful Italian Chefs such as Chef Stefano Merlo (Rossini’s in Bangkok) or Relais Galu’s Sergio Preziosa. In 2012, Chef Alajmo’s Le Calandre restaurant features in Restaurant Magazine top 50 best restaurants of the globe.
The restaurant Le Calandre is situated in Sarmeola di Rubano, at approx 6 kms away from the city of Padova, less than 50 kms away from Venezzia. The restaurant itself is inside the family’s restaurant/hotel building (They have another of their numerous restaurants in that building: Il Calandrino). The inside decor is contemporary minimalist- chic with tones of black and grey, no tablecloth on the tables. The room itself has elements of great artistic value such as the tables made of a century-old type of ash-oak tree wood as well as dinnerware/Italian hand blown crystal glassware worth of prime attention (they seem to pride themselves for putting lots of thoughts and care in this aspect of the dining experience; as an ie many restaurants have famous sommeliers who serve great wines and yet you look at the size or shape of some of their wine glasses and have quibbles to raise. At le Calandre, even such detail is not overlooked as clearly demonstrated by glasses designed for optimal flow of the wine onto your palate) . It would be interesting to incorporate some ideas of a great Venetian achitect like Carlo Scarpa in that contemporary interior.
Wine list: Over a thousand of wines, catering to all budgets, presented on an electronic display device (Ipad). Needless to describe that wine list since you can peruse it online (I found it very practical to have the wine list on the web). They do also, I am pretty sure, have more gems that do not necessarily feature on that online list. On this lunch, they initially served some glasses of Bruno Paillard Brut Assemblage 1999, then followed by some choices of wine by the glass that I appreciated a lot (I chose the default wine pairing to the ingredienti tasting menu). The highlight of this wine pairing was, for me, the 2007 Domaine Vincent Girardin Meursault Les Narvaux.
As/per the house, photo taking is forbidden to normal diners. All my life I have always respected people’s right to dine peacefully, virtually never photo shooting other diners or a full room, so in an empty room (which was the case during this meal), I do not see why I should refrain from taking pics of my meal since there’s absolutely no one that I am disturbing. I therefore discretely took those pics whenever the staff would not be in the dining room.
On with the FOOD:
Vegetable salad comprising of marinated beets, boiled carrots, sunflower cream, celery, tomatoes. The idea was to present the veggies in various textures (crunchy, dried, boiled, marinated, etc) and temperatures with layers of different piquant flavors (gingery, and dijon mustard in this case). Playful and interesting although I wished that some ingredients of this dish would have left a higher palatable impact as regularly expressed by ingredients in the Mediterranea (especially the tomatoes and the beets) 7.5/10
Next was cream of tomato/marinated and sauteed aubergine, fresh basil (Sorry for having taken the picture after sampling the food). The tomato part was essentially a take on the idea of a gazpacho. Top quality Sardinian Paue Carasau tomato featured on this dish. Refreshing with an interesting use of complimentary ingredients. 7/10
Followed by Ricciola raw fish carpaccio and a tartare of seafood and red meat. Lemon cream bringing the needed balance of acidity to the seafood, caviar adding extra textural dimension and cabbage was served alongside those ingredients. Good, objectively, but “standard” for this level 7/10
Then linguine (spelt linguine), black truffle, scallops, cuttlefish cream – the overall dish was properly cooked, had good flavors and was prettily presented on stone support.
Good, but again nothing out of the ordinary of what is to be expected at this level of dining 7/10
Most of the dishes served to that point were paired with a fabulous Meursault Les Narvaux 2007 (Domaine Vincent Girardin).
Next was Rose risotto/peach/ginger. Chef Alajmo came in the dining room, exchanging with his customers, and he explained to me that this is his reference to Italian renaissance art. A great idea indeed, playful, creative and this was certainly a good risotto with rice achieved at ideal bite, the cheese counterpoint matching really well the aromas of the rose, ginger and peach flavors adding to the complexity of the dish in a perfectly well balanced way. Very good. 8/10
Followed by veal cutlet and sweetbreads/curry sauce – The veal being of prime quality, the curry sauce thickened ideally and tasting good. On the side, a classically made fresh green salad. But at the end of the day, it is a piece of quality veal that’s nicely executed (I could have enjoyed that at home or at any level of the dining spectrum), nothing more. 7/10
Then lamb chops served with a cabbage roll. Nice acidity coming from that roll of cabbage, but another “standard / nothing special” dish. A roll of cabbage hardly the base for anything exciting at such level of dining, although indeed Good 7/10 (this was paired with a glass of Il Poggione San Leopoldo 2004, an interesting blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, barrel-aged for 12 months in French oak, and that expressed superb structure and long enjoyable fruity finish of dark berries.
Whereas the previous dishes were certainly all well executed, I found them to be a bit short on sparks. Still, the overall experience itself (with the fun and yet professional service, the charming ambience, the way they go above and beyond to make every little moment as memorable as it can be) was so fantastic that nothing was going to alter my high appreciation of their work. Well, it is as if they did not want me to leave with the impression that the kitchen could not deliver. The proof: a big surprise would follow next, and it would come from the kitchen ->
They suggested that I move to a different room, where I’d be alone to enjoy the dessert phase of my tasting menu. That phase is untitled ‘Game of Chocolate 2012’. In the room, some music is played with the sole intent to connect memories of the basics of life’s evolution with different items of an array of mini desserts.
Now, while the previous dishes varied in between 7 to 8/10 in my personal assessment, I was now in a completely different arithmetic logic (which in my case is just an extra effort to convey, in the best constructive way possible, the emotions and palatable impact brought to me by a dish). Interestingly, here’s what was written on a little piece of paper that I had to read prior to indulge in what was going to stand as the spectacular finale of this meal: “””In & Out choco game 2012 is something that we have all experienced before from our first heartbeats (IN) to our entrance into the world (OUT). During this passage, there is a moment of darkness that suddenly turns into pure light. IN & OUT is a simple expression of a large message”. Rfaol, upon reading that note, I said to myself “That is it, I got it now…Lol..the darkness was the first part of the meal (just kidding. The 1st part of the meal was no darkness at all) and now I was going to partake in the “pure light” phase of the meal. Laughs.
Joke aside, this part was simply spectacular with an array of mini desserts that kept the bar of palatable excitement to memorable heights. I’ll let the numbers convey how of an awe-inspiring level the choco game 2012 phase was: a delicious shot of dark choco was a benchmark of its kind (10/10), vanilla topped with a milky concoction of their own had my tongue leaving my mouth and start dancing in the room, Rfaol – It was that spectacular in mouth! A 10/10 for that vanilla/milk mixture. Then a shot of ginger/peach (10/10), some benchmark choco truffles (10.10), a shot of cold expresso with dulce di lecce underneath (10/10), a cracker with impossibly perfect sweet goat cheese in between (9/10), an impressive citrus flavored lollipop with white choco and pineapple (a Blast! 10/10 ), an exciting shot of their own take on pina colada and it went on and on with creative and exciting mini creations of that sort, but of world class perfection and palatable impact worth of superlatives.
A fantastic end to a meal that started on less impressive grounds.
PROS: The spectacular ending to this meal (fabulous flavors brought to surprising palatable heights in each bite of that memorable choco Game 2012 mise en scène) … CONS: …had that same amazement being expressed towards the first part of this repast, the entire meal would have been an epic culinary achievement. Regardless, this was still a very enjoyable experience and where many fail to seduce their customers, Le Calandre is succeeding at being a charm.
Ciao!
WHAT I THINK MONTHS LATER: As a dining experience, what a charm! Lovely place where I certainly had plenty of fun as I had rarely enjoyed anywhere else, all dining levels taken into account (apart, of course, the life memorable simple food enjoyed on the beaches of my beloved Indian ocean ;p). And the thoughts put in the modern and very zen décor have really seduced me. But the food on that lunch featured un-remarkable savouries — which although technically well executed (plating / textures as beautifully mastered as I’ve come to expect from any good 1,2 or 3 star Michelin) and delivered with top quality ingredients — missed the palatable excitement that the sweets finally delivered. It was odd to eat in Italy and not associate one single of those savouries with the theme of “utter deliciousness”. Showcasing great produce is one thing that I appreciate. Your ability to transform them into mouthfeels of bliss is the reason I pay to sit at your table. With that said, restaurants have changing menus and a menu that did not appeal to me at a given time means just that: at X time, it was just not my cup of tea and that perhaps on a next occasion, another menu will better suit my expectations. As long as Le Calandre never roams away from the essential: at this level, food needs to be outstanding in its aim to leave an imprint on my palate. Or else, each of the 3 stars will be scrutinized heavily. But I have to say this: i had fun here, which is already a great achievement.
Ristorante Dal Pescatore
Type of Cuisine: Updated Haute Italian (Classics of Mantuan cuisine, Lombardy)
Michelin Stars: 3
Event: Lunch on Thursday June 14th, 2012 12:00
Addr: Località Runate – 46013 Canneto sull’Oglio , Mantova
Phone:+39.0376.723001
Email: santini@dalpescatore.com
URL: http://www.dalpescatore.com
Service: 10/10 Mostly young, well behaved Gentlemen with great tact. My mother tongue is French, so they spoke French to me, and listening to Italians talking in French, with an Italian accent, is always pure joy to me. It has its charm, a charm that lingers on my mind. Overall food rating: 8.5/10 The Santinis have an amazing sense of taste as largely proven by the fabulous ravioli di faraona, the stunning tomato compote, great risotto, outstanding reduction to the braised beef shoulder, benchmark torta di amaretti. And at a time when everyone thinks that we’ve seen it all with a polenta, they manage to deliver one against which I will judge all other polentas. The only reason I give it a 8.5/10, as opposed to a 10, is because the overall impression I have of this meal is one of an overall Very good-to-excellent (8.5/10) classic 3 star Michelin meal rather than one of benchmark level (10/10). Regardless, this is exactly the type of classic 3 star Michelin I like most and I would run back to Dal Pescatore way before thinking about going back to Michelin star restaurants that I have rated with a 10/10. As always, a subjective matter based on personal preference and experience. Overall dining experience: 10/10 I have rarely felt so happy in a restaurant, Michelin starred or not. It goes without saying that at this level of dining, every little detail counts and each one found all along this meal simply scored high on my appreciation scale: the plating, the beautiful and elegant country home decor, the countryside, the charming and down to earth wait staff met all along this meal , and the qualities I expect from a top dining destination just kept piling up while I was there.
This might have just been my overall favourite of all high end restaurants. I have never felt more of an emotional connection to an upmarket restaurant than this one. To call a restaurant ‘the best in the world’, you either do it for marketing purpose / generating hype (for eg, San Pelegrino World best restaurant’s ranking ) or you do it based on personal preferences, obviously. And NO..you do not need to visit every single restaurant in the world to have a good idea of what you could define as YOUR “best restaurant in the world (only someone who has no clue of what professional cooking and the high end restaurant level is really about would need to reassure himself that way..a bit as if you would feel the need to visit every single country of this globe to get to the conclusion that Americans are among the best at playing Basketball.. ). For me, for my taste, with respect to what I value as real great “artisan Chef’ cooking, coupled with my profound love for Italian cooking and the countryside of beautiful Italy, Dal Pescatore is “THE best restaurant in the world”.
Around two years ago when I decided to review restaurants (NOT really something that I like to do, reasons are explained here, and I do NOT systematically think about reviews wherever I go, or on whatever I eat, Lol!), I knew exactly what I wanted in my reviews: avoiding style at all costs and focusing on what I believe to matter most: assessing the (relative) value of the restaurant food that I am eating. Ironically, by ‘assessing the value of my restaurant meal”, I went one step further and removed …the price factor…. out of the equation. That is because on top of the already explained reasons that led me to review restaurants, I had one major quibble (with most opinions about restaurant reviews) that jumped to my attention: what if the $$$ was not taken into consideration?? Apparently, from most answers I have gathered throughout the years, most would have found their meals to be excellent had the price been lower! Interesting…So, often it is worthy of raves because it was affordable. Let’s take $$$ out of the picture then and focus on what I have in my plate. Make no mistake: I understand the notion of value for my bucks, but I am interested by one thing ONLY: the deliciousness of the food that I am eating way before its value gets lost in ‘value for money’ interpretation.
Restaurant reviewing is, of course, not limited to one or two aspects of a dining experience. And it does not have to be something special neither. I personally refuse the idea of restaurant reviewing on a professional level for a very simple reason: I don’t see why something as personal as this (talking about the food you eat) would be remunerative , unless you go way beyond the basic restaurant scripts and books of recipes as it is the case for few exceptional food journalists like Quebec’s Marie-Claude Lortie, Perico Légasse in France, John Mariani in the US . I know, it (reviewing restaurant as a job) is a pointer, a way to be better informed. But you have this in tons of opinions over the web, and those people are not renumerated. I know some will argue that a professional food critic will provide you with stylish write-ups and professionalism. BUT that is not what I want in a restaurant review: like it or not, I do not eat ‘style’ nor ‘a sense of professionalism’ nor ‘megalomania expressed through writings”. I eat food and I just want to know what is offered, how it is made, to what relative level of cooking is the kitchen reaching out to.
There is also the widely preached bogus belief that anonymous reviews may hide personal agendas. Even a saint can hide an agenda. We all know that. More importantly, a normal diner at a restaurant is anonymous, shall I remind this? And when you dine at a restaurant, guess what…you have opinions on what you have just paid for, with, as it should normally happen… your own hard earned money. Those opinions can be expressed in many ways: verbally, in writings, etc. So, I do not see any problem with comments from anonymous or well known sources. They both can either hide agendas or be honest. No one will ever have any control over this, anyways. Desperate harmful and insulting views with no constructive and no honest purpose —- which is the only thing that would make sense to fear from an anonymous review– should obviously NOT be encouraged and this applies to celeb faces hiding agendas of restaurant propaganda . Either way, there should be no excuse to intimidate freedom of speech. The debate over anonymous opinions is a debate full of nonsense, a creation of some of the industry’s watchdogs, a debate pertaining to ancient times when big Daddy, scared of the judgements of others, would command you to show your face before you can think and judge accordingly. But humanity has evolved and people paying for what they consume, with their own hard earned money, should never accept that the restaurant industry and some of their watchdogs take control over what we should have as opinions.
Who you are, as a restaurant reporter, makes absolutely no difference: this type of opinions (about restaurants) are subjective anyways, no matter how credible you might think you are, and consequently, knowing what you like or not, what you are hiding or not, is of utter irrelevance. We should do this (sharing our opinion) for the simple sake of sharing knowledge but certainly not as an exercise of potential serious influence on the choices of others. As far as I am concerned, my agenda is clear: it’s written here and as explained, I wanted to experience for myself the journey of an independent voice completely detached from the restaurant industry. I wanted to be able to rave –or not — about what I felt authentically deserving of its raves –or not –, to be able to freely convey what I really had in mind as opposed to be influenced by outside elements. Naturally, I can afford behaving this way (fully enjoying the role of a normal diner, being independent from the industry, mocking at style or etiquette) and abide by my own principles no matter who says what — only because I have no commercial interest in the restaurant business . I took time to write this because there is nowadays a universal debate around the subject (of anonymous restaurant reviews), a non-debate in my pertinacious view, thus my two little cents on this matter. This is my opinion, and I’ll proudly and obdurately drink to that, Rfaol!
Before I write about the current reviewed restaurant – Every gourmand’s dream is to find the best value restaurant at the very top level of world’s fine dining. Once every 5 years or so, I stumble upon one and lately, it is in Chicaco, Illinois. It is L2o, a restaurant that I have discovered back in the days of Chef Laurent Gras. It was back then already deserving its 3 stars. Then Chef Francis Brennan took control of the kitchen, and the solid 3 star Michelin performance kept rising to the top. Now, that Chef Brennan left, it was downgraded to a 1 star Michelin restaurant and I recently had a meal there, under its present 1 star Michelin assignment, and everyone at my table (they are regulars of world’s haute dining extravaganza) agreed: it is, between you and me, the current best value at the very top Michelin star dining level, and Chef Matthew Kirkley is, for now, the most underrated Chef in the world. You get a top 3 star Michelin dining at an official 1 star Michelin. Other great discovery, lately: La Table d’Aki (after more than 2 decades alongside Bernard Pacaud of 3 star Michelin L’Ambroisie, Chef Akihiro Horikoshi has opened his own little bistrot and is unleashing some of the secrets that made of Chef Pacaud one of the most respected icons of La France gourmande. A great way to sample the sense of classic culinaric savourishness of Chef Pacaud, brought to us by Aki, at very sweet $$$. Check that out: Table D’Aki, 49, rue Vaneau, 7th Arr, Paris. Phone: 01 45 44 43 48).
And now, our featuring restaurant review (Lunch on Thurs June 14th, 2012 at noon):
Dal Pescatore, its cuisine, its Chefs – Dal Pescatore is a restaurant of haute Italian cuisine balanced between innovation and tradition. The latter (balanced between innovation and tradition) being a description that is dear to them; on their web site they do insist on this, and it is also, based on my meal there, a realistic portray of their cooking style. Innovation here means that it brings an updated approach to a style of Italian Haute dining that remains classic (with a focus on its surrounding regional fares: for ie risottos, nearby Mantuan pasta dishes, other Italian classics especially from their local Lombardy region ), but it is by no means into futuristic culinary styles. They do also insist on the food being wholesome. It is among restaurant Magazine top 50 best tables of the world, a member of the prestigious ‘Les Grandes Tables du Monde” as well as earning three Michelin stars since 1996 (only seven Italian restaurants boast three stars). It is considered by Paul Bocuse, the pope of French gastronomy and many top culinary journalists such as John Mariani as well as frequent patrons of the haute dining scene as the very best restaurant in the world. High profile chefs such as Anne-Sophie Pic had their lifetime’s best meal here. The soul of Dal Pescatore, Chef Nadia Santini (one of her sons, Giovanni, is nowadays an active Chef at this restaurant as well as their legendary Mama Bruna / I recommend that you read their story on their web site, it is an interesting read – it’s surely fun to observe how they evolved from a 1920s countryside tavern to the top of world’s Alta cucina, for ie, or how Nadia Santini went from studies in Political Sciences to the position of one of world’s most respected 3 star Michelin Chefs / It is also amazing to note that Chef Nadia Santini rejects the idea of a brigade in a kitchen; she is one of the very rare top Chefs around the globe who thinks that hierarchy is unnecessary in a kitchen and that everyone should work as equal members of one team) is frequently mentioned as one of the top 3 best female Chefs in the world alongside Pic (Maison Pic, France) and Elena Arzak (Arzak, Spain). Many grand Chefs have also trained and honed their culinary philosophy here: LA’s Sotto Chef Steve Samson , Celebrity Chef Todd English, Malibu’s Granita Restaurant Chef Jennifer Naylor, Chicago’s Spiaggia Chefs Sarah Grueneberg, Tony Mantuano and many more. Other high profile Chefs like Gordon Ramsay, Giorgio Locatelli and top British Chef Angela Hartnett have expressed great admiration for DP. It is always admirable to learn that such a Grand Chef like Nadia Santini (who, after numerous years of excelling at such top level, would be in the excusable position of saying ‘I have nothing to prove anymore’) is always in her kitchen in a world where ‘embryo’ cooks with a lot left to be proven are busy parading afar from where they are supposed to be found!
Decor – A mix of classic and contemporary elegance with emphasis on ‘ la gioia di vivere ‘ , the joy of life, as easily expressed by the possibility of indulging in one of Italians favourite custom ‘Mangia fuori’ on their veranda in summer, evidences of cozyness (fireplaces, the joyful color scheme of the 3 dining rooms, the wooden floor that gives the room a warm and intimate feel), the artworks on the wall. Pastel colored walls (in pure Northern Italian decorating style , the colors pay respect to various elements of the surrounding countryside: lakes, earth, etc), beautifully laid tables positioned for privacy. Think of the restaurant as a sophisticated country house with a peaceful view on a well kept garden.
Location – Dal Pescatore is located in the village of Runate, municipality of Canneto sull’Oglio, in the province of Mantova (region of Lombardia), North of Parma, East of Milan. Around 65 km from Verona Intl Airport, 115 kms from Milan Linate Airport, 150 kms from Milan Malpensa Airport. I’d suggest you include a dinner here within a tour of Lombardy’s main attractions (historical cities of Mantova, Modena, Cremona, Parma / the urban life of Milan / scenic places like lakes Maggiore, Como, Garda). Hire a car.
Produce– I have always admired Chefs who are really close to the land, to the point of growing most of their own food. I have always favored Chefs who are really close to their local produce and artisans. That is perhaps why I always had a soft spot for the work of Chef Alain Passard at L’Arpège, Chef Patrice Gelbart who used to work at ‘Aux Berges du Cérou’ or Chef Craig Shelton who was at the helm of the Ryland Inn in Whitehouse, New Jersey. I remember my excitement when, during a dinner at the Ryland Inn (Chef Shelton does not work there since years, now), Chef Shelton kept rushing between his garden and his kitchen making sure that optimal freshness was present on our plates. He had that strict ‘xxx minutes maximum delay’ ..5 or 7 mins if I remember properly (Chef Shelton was a pioneer of the farm-to-table movement on the East Coast in the US) …in between picking the ingredient, getting it cooked and served. Of course, Chef Shelton is an exceptionally skilled Chef and I would have never mentioned this had his food not been of stellar mention. Years later, here I am in Canneto sull’Oglio and the Santinis have that exact same philosophy at heart: they raise most of their vegetables on the premises.
The food report –
I started with a tomato compote of stunning marinda (from Sardinia, Italy) tomato flavor 10/10. It’s a great example of why Italian food is so well respected: startling simplicity and beautiful produce. Italians know how to make you rediscover the real flavor of an ingredient. I am not rating this with a 10 just for the produce alone: a touch of beautifully aged balsamic and inspired hands brought this tomato to palatable triumph.
Followed by Porcini, Fegato di Vitello (Veal liver), romarino (rosemary) – Flawless cooking technique as shown all along this meal. The mushroom packed with deep earthy flavors that complemented so well with the veal liver. No quibble here: cooking achieved beautifully and flavors as good as you can get from a nicely prepared veal liver. 8/10
Then, Tortelli di Zucca (Zucca, Amaretti, Mostarda, e Parmigiano Reggiano) – tortelli with pumpkin, amaretti biscuits, mostarda (a type of candied fruit and mustard chutney condiment and a speciality of Lombardia) and Parmesan – Star Chef Todd English has always praised Dal Pescatore for for being the place where he learned everything about pasta and the work of the dough. Pasta making is indeed pushed to high level of conception, here. It is artisanal pasta, hand made on the premises. Pasta can’t be fresher than this: they make it only when you order. One Pasta signature dish of Dal Pescatore is Tortelli di Zucca, and a Mantuan classic: made of pumpkin (Zucca), nutmeg, a bit of cinnamon, cloves, mostarda (A ‘glacé fruit’ preserved in a spicy syrup), Italian almond-flavored cookies (Amaretti) and the iconic cheese of this region: their Parmigiano-Reggiano. They are using, in Mantua, an ingredient that adds so much to pasta: pumpkin, as expected, does indeed add amazing texture and superb flavor. Its sweet, and yet savory nature teasing the palate. As a quick reference, if you had sampled Chef Todd Stein’s iconic “Caramelli dish” (pasta filled with butternut squash, sage, amaretti crumbs) when he was at the helm of Restaurant Cibo Matto in Chicago – that dish made it to America’s best pasta dishes of several top food magazines — then think of Tortelli di Zucca as its elder (not served the same way, and not fully identical, but the basic idea and also ingredients behind both dishes are similar) . Dal Pescatore’s version was flawless: the mostarda enhancing the pumpkin with lots of panache, the pasta itself is impeccably executed, its texture utterly refined, the taste is of course a bit less rich and rustic compared to the tortelli di zucca I tried at the other places in the region but this is understandable since this is fine dining and not rustic dining. Also, the Santinis focus a lot on good healthy food, therefore food that’s not overwhelmingly rich nor too rustic. What justifies, in my opinion, a 3 star Michelin meal is its depth of precision in balancing, better than many others, the flavors, textures and other cooking aspects (timing of the cooking, judicious choice of the ingredient combination, effective usage of heat, etc) that are involved on a dish, all things achieved brilliantly on this dish. PS: Try this recipe at home . Excellent. 9/10
Ravioli di Faraona – Guinea fowl ravioli was of benchmark 3 star Michelin material. The preparation of the pasta, its impeccable texture, the outstanding balance of flavors, the superb mouthfeel are just a fraction of the superlatives I could use to describe the amazement of this dish. 10/10
Then Branzino con olio extravergine umbro, Prezzemolo, Acciughe e Capperi di Salina – Excellent seabass that retained its well known enjoyable mild flavor, its flesh was firm and immaculately white as any top quality fresh seabass has to, the cooking achieved to ideal moisture retention. 8.5/10
Followed by Risotto con pistilli di zafferano e aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena (sometimes it is ‘Risotto (Vialone Nano) con pistilli di Zafferano e Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale ) – Saffron risotto with traditional Balsamic vinegar from Modena – They grow their own saffron on the premises and this is thoughtful: it has nothing to do with the average saffron I am accustomed to, and that you find in most saffron risotti of the region. This saffron has a superior subtle aromatic freshness that, on its own, transforms their risotto into a unique one. But the kitchen goes beyond the full satisfaction of their spice, and as stands true to a good Il Bagatto, it brings another secret weapon to the center stage of the show: the ethereal aged authentic Modena balsamic vinegar with its mesmerizing long finish flavor. Vialone Nano, well known for absorbing liquid better than many other rices, is indeed the appropriate rice that needed to be used for this risotto dish. Of this dish, I’ll remember the great technique, the superb taste that can only come from a top quality stock, the proper heat regulation and excellent texture. 9/10
Cappello da Prete di Manzo al Barbera e Polenta Gialla di Storo – braised shoulder of beef slowly cooked in Barbera wine with polenta – Cappello del prete is a cut of beef ideal for braising (although, in my view, not quite at the level of what a meat like beef cheeks can deliver when it’s braised to its prime) . The meat was cooked to tender consistency for long hours in a rich Barbera wine based sauce. This dish, due to its comforting nature could have been predictably less memorable but it was not: the sauce was reduced as it should, the delicious juice-infused beefy meat kept an ideal tender consistency to it, the exemplary polenta (if you see a cook looking down on polenta…it is not a Chef, it is just a lesser cook who badly needs to get a taste of a polenta like this one so that he will forever understand how he was never made aware of the full potential that lies ahead of such a supposedly simple fare). The reduced sauce was remarkable, even for this level of dining. 9/10
Amaretti Torta – For years, I have made Amaretti torta many times (this as well as torta sabbiosa, zabaione and chiacchere are among my favourite Italian desserts/cakes), and I just like tasting it whenever it is baked by others, just to see how far they push it, therefore an appealing pick for me. This one had a good ratio of the basic ingredients necessary to make this cake (choco chips, amaretti cookies, etc). The amaretti base was impeccably made, the cake itself cooled down to room temp, had proper moist consistency and was packed with a depth of enticing chocolate, coffee and almond aromas. Easily, a benchmark amaretti torta 10/10
I was warned by some of my Italian foodie friends that on Italy’s best tables, I should not expect petits fours of the standard found on France’s best 3 star Michelin tables. They were wrong: the array of fabulous petits fours (various chocolate creations, mini fruit tart, etc) on display could have been served at a top 3 star Michelin table in France and I would see no difference. They were that great, and I had a huge smile when I sampled the solo cherry featuring among those petits fours: I urge anyone to find me a better cherry! 10/10
I forgot to ask if dining alfresco was a possibility as I saw that they have a terrace.
My short conclusion on this meal at Dal Pescatore – The strength of this meal I just had at DP lies in (1) how this cuisine is entirely symbiotic with its environment and (2) how most of the dishes are perfected: the pastas I had would set the bar for their artistry in colors, their flawless textures, their delectable stuffings. The risotto I have just tasted is also of that level of culinary mastery. I was quite surprised (in a good way) by this performance, even by the standards expected at this level of dining. Almost everything was copacetic all along this meal. The minimum at such standards of dining is food that’s refined and well done, for sure, but it was still remarkable to find items as eventful as some that I have just tasted. Many among world’s most talented Chefs have a spectacular culinaric sense, but few have an exceptional palate. Whoever has cooked the ravioli faraona, the tomato compote, the petits fours and the amaretti torta can be counted amongst the latter. I don’t know Dal Pescatore enoughly well so I can’t really tell which dish was cooked by Chef Nadia Santini, her son, or by Mama Bruna, etc — something I generally like to know since each person has a signature cooking touch and that aspect matters to me — but I could observe a common denominator in their cooking as a team: they favor harmonious flavours. I wanted a repast exempt from what I perceive as the UNECESSARY (the pipettes, the foams, the paintings on the plate, and tons of other gimmicks), a meal focusing on the pleasure of eating real food, enjoying the best local produce. You can eat very well at low cost in Italy (If you stumble upon a bad cook in Italy, my guess is that it is not a cook…it is an impersonator who just wants to make a quick buck…because here, it is not the ‘buzz’ that dictates who you are —some cooks in some cities will recognize themselves in the latest statement — it is real talent! Hard working Real Chefs cooking for real….), but on this occasion, I wanted this simple and delicious cuisine expressed in its most refined version. That is exactly why I went to DP and that is also what I got.
From an aphorism of France’s 20th century best known writer, Curnonsky: “Good cooking is when things taste of what they are.”. Curnonsky would have been very happy with most dishes of this meal: wherever things looked simple, they were elevated with brio, but never through gimmicks and only with inspired emphasis on their very own nature. Simplicity, I’ll always reiterate, is nice only when it is in the hands of a gifted Chef.
In fine, for the food on this meal, I’ll underline the careful balance of flavors on all of the dishes, the importance of never roaming away from the comfort zone of a nice hearty classic dish (their meat, their pasta dishes) while adding the touch of superior inspiration and culinaric effort expected at this echelon .
PS: Wine – One of my favourite all time red wines accompanied this meal. It’s a 2008 Pergole Torte Sangiovese (memorable licorice aromas, perfectly balanced tannins). Talking about their wine list, it not only suits to all budgets and covers a big part of the globe (of course Italy and France, but also Australia, Lebanon, New Zeland, etc), but how thoughtful was that to classify it by type of wines (for ie, Franciorta – Trento classico e altri spumanti, Bianchi Italiani, Rossi Italiani, etc), then by vintage years. Here’s a sommelier who perfectly understands the importance of a logically well conceived wine list. Another great moment: a glass of giulio ferrari 2001, a must when it comes to bubbles.
PROS(of this meal at Dal Pescatore): In the days leading to my meal at DP, I have enjoyed Mantuan food at some serious trattorias of the region.I was also lucky enough to have sampled the food of two talented nonnas living in the region,too. So, my experience and expectations of my meal at DP was different, from, say, the standard food traveler who would have just visited DP with, in mind, some general knowledge of Italian food (as opposed to accurate information about Mantuan food and what should be expected from an interpretation of this specific cuisine). There are things that I am not fond of, such as the tad-less-runnier texture of the risotti that Classic Mantuan cuisine tend to favor, but that is just a matter of preference and should not be assessed as inferior to the sort of a bit-more-runnier textured risotti that can be found, for example, in the region of Veneto. It is just two different ways of taking the risotto. DP clearly offered a perfected interpretation of Mantuan Classics. I had a great time, here and this (great food, great wine, top service, nothing overworked but to the contrary brought up in a natural appealing way may it be in the behaviour of the staff, the presentation of the food, etc) is exactly what I do expect from a 3 star Michelin dining venture. CONS (of this meal at Dal Pescatore): When a heart is happy, there’s nothing to pique at.
WHAT I THINK MONTHS LATER – Your judgement of a meal goes down to who you are. I am someone who believes that greatness is about doing the most with the least. So simplicity done this well is, to me, the definition of perfection. It’s a classic place, so if classic is not your thing, you have tons of tables for you: Mugaritz, Noma, Thierry Marx, The Fat Duck, Alinea, Quique Dacosta, etc. If you want noise, buzz, hype, trend, there are tons of popular bistrots and restaurants around the world that will fit the bill. On the other hand, if like me, you believe in great classic cooking, then DP is a benchmark table. For me, for my taste, with respect to what I value as real great cooking, Dal Pescatore is an example of what I would define as a “best restaurant in the world”.
Victor’s Gourmet-Restaurant Schloss Berg
Event: Dinner at Victor’s Gourmet-Restaurant Schloss Berg
When: Friday September 16th 2011, 7PM
Michelin stars: 3
Addr: Schloßstraße 27-29, D-66706 Perl-Nennig/Mosel
Email: info@victors-fine-dining.de
URL: https://www.victors-fine-dining.de/en/
Chef Bau’s web site: http://www.christian-bau.de
Phone: +49 6866 79118
Type of cuisine: Modern French/Cosmopolitan
This restaurant has now a new name: Victor’s FINE DINING by Christian Bau
Overall food rating : 10/10 Chef Bau is a magician with the exceptional ability of those few who will always set the bar (the precision and depth of his cooking skills is of prime mention), for others to follow. He is to food what a virtuoso is to music. An exceptional virtuoso. Service: 10 /10 They are mostly young, open minded and hard working. Their hard work shows. Overall Dining experience: 10/10 This is different from the grand Parisian 3 Michelin stars, and yet
it provided, on this dinner, an overall dining experience that is as exciting as the best ones found in France.
Food rating: Exceptional (10), Excellent (9), Very good (8), Good (7)
I measure the genius of a Chef in his ability to showcase a substantial depth of skills that his peers can’t accomplish as succesfully. For those in the know, Chef Christian Bau has the skills for others to follow, especially his exceptional precise work of shapes, colors and flavors. I have no clue if he is there all the time behind his kitchen, but when he is cooking, which was the case on that evening, there is no doubt in my mind that he is among the few truly gifted Chefs of the globe.
Before going ahead, a quick declaration of respect to one of the the world’s most exciting Chefs of our time, El Bulli’s Adria . As we all know, El Bulli has closed its doors (as a restaurant) in July. I am buying all your books, Chef, and shall practice all your tricks! So that the amazing artist that I saw in you remains present in my mind, the mind of a classic-cuisine gourmand, btw! Proof that even the most traditionalists among us have embraced your cult! Hasta siempre, Jefe! As for those who are looking after the next clone of Adria: forget clones, folks! Your best souvenirs are ..your best souvenirs. They perfume your memories till you lose it, and that is it.
Wow, this has been the shortest but most intense constructive trip I ever had in Europe: four little days of culinary congress, meetings, exchanges. Only a few knows this, but aside from Sciences, Litterature, Economics and Politics, one of my long time passion has been the research of enhancing flavor combinations in classic food. Basically, what Jefe Ferran Adria does with progressive cooking at El Bulli , I do the same with classic cuisine. Where the latest cook who has just completed his culinary degree tells you that he is excited to test progressive cuisine because there’s not much to discover with a simple classic filet mignon, I spend timeless moments in my kitchen finding the ingredients or best cooking technique to ‘rejuvenate’ that classic filet mignon. This is why you won’t fail to realize that my favourite Chefs mostly happen —- whether they’ve chosen to partake in the progressive cooking trend or not — to have a great depth of mastery in classic cooking. As soon as I have some time, I will try to write about those congresses I’ve just talked about (truly interesting for us, gourmands from all around the world). Then I had to end this European mini tour with —of course — a bit of self-pampering: I had either El Celler de Can Roca (Girona) or one of Germany’s top 3 star Michelin tables on my short list of tables I’d be interested to visit since a long time. Spain is my type of country. It’s a place where I’ll go back regularly anyways, it’s even a place where there are big chances that I spend the rest of my life. So I went for Germany this time. Destination: Perl. Perl-Nennig. My final choice: Victor’s Gourmet-Restaurant Schloss Berg.
The city of Perl-Nennig, where Victor’s Gourmet-Restaurant Schloss Berg is located, is in a geographical area that is famous for its vineyards, castles (the restaurant Victor’s Gourmet-Restaurant Schloss Berg happens to be is in a renaissance castle) and scenic surroundings that I unfortunately did not take time to explore on this visit, but if this is of interest for you, I’d recommend you have a look at Rick Steve‘s article on that region. This trip there was the conclusion of months of been puzzled between Chef Bau‘s restaurant where it is located, and another German 3-star Michelin: Waldhotel Sonnora‘s restaurant. Waldhotel Sonnora was actually my very 1st choice for its more classical cooking, but since it sounded too remote and way too complicated to get there by train (my only mean of transport during this trip), I ended opting for Victor Gourmet-Restaurant Schloss Berg. The thing that attracted me to both 3-star Michelin restaurants is their reputation for consistency. I have rarely sat at a 3-star Michelin with food consistently good from the 1st amuse bouche to the last mignardise, one of the few exceptions being the last meal at L’Ambroisie in Paris, or the last meals at Joel Robuchon’s Hotel du Parc and Fredy Girardet in 1995 (both are now closed, since) where each dish lived up to what I do expect at this level of dining. A suggestion: if you are in Perl Nennig and have hired a car, head to the tiny Luxembourg town of Remich for refuel (it’s at approx 3,4 kms from Nennig). It will be less expensive to refuel there. And Remich is a little town I’d recommend that you visit, especially in summer (it’s lively!).
My take on Chef Bau’s Victor’s Gourmet-Restaurant Schloss Berg: Known as one of the most brilliant 3-star Michelin Chefs around the globe, Christian Bau has chosen not to create a restaurant empire like many of his peers. Instead, he prefers perfecting his cooking in the kitchen of his triple-starred Michelin stronghold of Perl-Nennig. An aspect that I value a lot in a Chef’s philosophy (reminder: on top of being completely independent from anything related to the restaurant world, I do also insist on mostly dining at restaurants where you have the actual Chef behind his stoves instead of running after popularity contests and leaving his customers to name bearers). He first earned an initial Michelin star in 1998, followed by a second one in 1999, and was awarded his third in 2005. A third Michelin star that he retains since then.
Many, among some of the connoisseurs of world’s finest tables, argue that the only reason Chef Bau’s restaurant is not a worldwide attraction has got to do with its secluded location (the restaurant is located in the remote German’s Saarland state, a territory bordering France and Luxembourg). In my opinion, the location is far from being an issue: it is situated at 30 mins drive from the major urban area of Luxembourg-city. Those connoisseurs did also express their dissatisfaction over the fact that Chef Bau’s talent is not recognized by worldwide restaurant listings like the S Pellegrino’s Top 100 world best dining ventures, an observation to which I’ll append my personal opinion:
If you play attention at that list, you quickly realize that most of the featuring restaurants are ones that did set themselves apart by their persistent adoption of a given culinary trend: for ie, the molecular movement (Fat Duck, El Bulli, Alinea etc), the ‘rise’ of bosky cuisine (Noma, for ie), the unique progressive touches of Mugaritz or Quique Da Costa, the unorthodox style of Iñaki Aizpitarte’s Le Chateaubriand, etc. But of course, being unique in a daring way does not necessarily mean being among the best (or does it? I’ll leave this to your discretion), which brings us back to our featuring restaurant review: Chef Bau is currently not making the headlines of world’s gastronomy perhaps because he is not trying to follow trends for the sake of popularity nor trying to reinvent the wheel, and that did not stop him from being, in facts, at the very top. Bau has spent years alongside legendary German Chef Harald Wohlfahrt (perhaps one of the few Chefs that I admire the most, for his amazing food, naturally, but also for one of the most fabulous Chef quotes ‘’Don’t cook out of ambition because this is what your food will taste like’’), prior to his appointment as Chef of Victor’s Gourmet-restaurant Schloss Berg in 1997.
As/per the house, photo taking is normally forbidden to everyone, normal diners or not. I was fine with that rule, because my point is to experience things the way a normal diner would experience it (this blog sole intent is to share just with close friends and relatives. In the process, I am sharing it with the rest of the web, for just knowledge sharing as the sole motivation). But they told me that on that evening, a bunch of food bloggers and food journalists were paying a visit to them and were allowed to take pics, therefore that restriction was loosened and I could thereore feel free to seize the occasion and take pics of my meal, which I did. I am taking the time to write this because I believe in ‘honesty” as the first mandatory step of anything we shall aim at.
The menu: it is a tasting menu, at the discretion of the Chef, that they call ‘voyage culinaire” for its international influences. You can be served 4, 6, 8 or 10 courses , but whatever set of courses you are opting for, they will also offer 8,9 free extra nibbles + an array of mignardises. And those are outstanding nibbles! This is one of the most affordable 3 Star Michelin tables.
Decor: Omnipresence of light warm tones in an overall decor that is nicely balanced between elements of victorian and contemporary design . Having myself spent time studying the influence of colors on a diner’s appetite, that specific aspect naturally caught my attention at this restaurant: whether it was their intent or not, color psychology is better mastered here than at any other restaurant that comes to mind. A beautiful and smart use of appetizing colors; for ie the light brown of their wooden floors or the discrete sparse touches of red (mini flower pots of gorgeous red roses on the table, on this evening) follow the principle of the ‘appetizing color’ theme.
Food–
I led off with a parade of bite-size savoury appetizers that showcased ingenuity:
As an ie, cornet with tenderloin, Räucheraalcreme (smoked eel cream ) & chives – finely hand-cut meat to a consistency that’s ideal for tartares, accurate seasoning and mix-ins; at the art of intensifying taste and flavor, you can’t go wrong when you pair a perfectly conceived beef tartare with the addictive richness of a well composed smoked eel cream. Not to forget the elegant and ideal aromatic substitute to onion: the chives. That was naturally eventful and it deserves its full 10/10 marks
-Parmesan crust with yuzu confiture had a terrific crunchy cheesy appeal marrying perfectly with the yuzu flavor 10/10
The array of impressive nibbles went on with
– Jabugo Bellota ‘Puro’ (I’m a big fan of this ‘crème de la crème’ well praised ham; the bellota type is truly sublime – As I’ve learned with time, the Spaniards always back buzz with effective accomplishments. Not just blabla and wind just to cash in mileages of advertising non deserved visibility;) atop a flawless and delicious creative risotto-inspired mini ball of rice. 10/10
-Majorcan gamba with lardo and caviar had an addictive multi-dimensional parade of marine fresh flavors 10/10
– Crab cracker with hamachi, fennel & apple, green tea biscuit with lobster and kimizu was a show-stopper for its surprising balance of complex tastes and textures. It showed in terms of “culinary prouesse” the humongous depth of technical mastery of Chef Christian Bau. That depth kept shining throughout the entire meal, a rare occurence at any level of dining. 10/10
-Bio carrot with yogurt and coriander (the left side photo) was simply startling: I’d not be surprised to learn that it would be hard to find a better veloute of carrot than this. The kick of coriander adding an extra dimension of remarkable tastes. This came along a refined veggie sushi and phenomenal moussy take on carrots 10/10
There was also a plate of 5 creations based on bluefin tuna with Miso, soja and cucumber. It will be hard to put in words the level of impressive successful complexity at play on each of those 5 morsels. Startling! 10/10
Not one single flaw throughout that exposition of superb mini culinary concoctions. Nine mini courses before the main dishes arrive, imagine! Generosity is the motto.
The first main course arrived:
A construction around oyster. A succulent lucious and juicy poached oyster was paired with oyster-flavored refined chips, pearl-looking creations oozing of amazing fresh oysteriness, combava as the citrus enhancer and algae (passe-pierre) for a concerto of pure palatable amazement . Complex, exciting and so thoughtful 10/10
Sea spider took me by surprise. I expected some kind of tempura sea-spider. The sea spider came as a meaty roll, this was actually reminescent of crab meat imho but it was sea spider. Part of the appeal of this dish is its clever conceptualization: you can see that each item was diligently thought and carefully selected in relation to the next (I have rarely seen a Chef pairing so flawlessly and excitingly veggies with seafood. It sounds like an easy thing and most of the time it’s a common affair, but the way Chef Bau marries veggies and seafood make them pass as items of the same species). The flavour of the seafood is maintained in its pure form, its taste as delicate as it should. He adds lots of extra textural and taste dimensions to all his dishes (I could count at least 8 different components on that dish) and what turns usually as a big risk in most talented hands is like a piece of cake for him. To epitomize what I’ve just asserted, a creamy velouté of green veggies poured over this dish tasted like a tantalizing seafood enhancer to the sea spider rather than tasting of some futile veggie cream thrown against seafood. 10/10
The next offering (which I forgot to take a picture of ) was goose liver from the Landes (au torchon) wrapped by top quality seaweed. I have to admit that I was lucky to have sampled some stunning quality foie gras (duck and sometimes goose as well) in the past (in Quebec, France and in some other countries), but this one has a phenomenal taste that I won’t forget as long as my memory serves me. A modern take on a ragout of mushrooms with a citrusy hint of sudachi (a citrus fruit) complemented the dish. This course had great finesse with a mouthfeel worthy of superlatives. 10/10
A serving of artichoke from France’s region of Bretagne rose as the epitomy of the perfect artichoke-centric dish: it had jabugo bellota ham , parmesan foam and artichoke root sauce imparting an impressive depth of enticing flavours to this dish. The care, composition and cooking mastery behind this dish were herculean in scope, the presentation immaculate. As with each menu item that I was served all along this tasting, accurate cooking times were skilfully surveyed and the technique, impeccable. The taste, a pure bliss with each mouthful insisting on the next. 10/10
The next course exalted by a delicious meaty piece of irreproachable fresh prawn (the Gamberoni was cooked à la plancha and kept its genuine marine flavor). The small green “globes” you see on the picture are made of peas and were packed with unusual exquisite taste. A cream of Kombuseaweed had impressive taste sensation that stood out in a very distinct way and lightened the dish. Another item that was mingling so well in this successful concerto of tastes and textures was Jasmin rice broth with coconut infusion: it was a fun and creative take on what looks like rice crispy but would then give rice crispy a newly discovered refined state. Here’s a dish that attracts me towards its creativity. 10/10
A plate of Atlantic turbot was next. The fish on its own had perfect flasky consistency and the flesh, translucent. The exquisite moistness of the fish was superb. It was combined with sweet potato dots, the brilliant addition of a mouth watering gingery sauce, the crunchy nutty dimension of the hazelnuts that was topping the fish. A sensational culinary creation with ingredients which sourcing is exemplary and perhaps one of my lifetime favourite cosmopolitan dish (there was, once all items were mixed together, a middle Eastern feel to this dish that propulsed me in heaven – literally). Chef Bau count among the exceptional few who can offer some of the most creative and exciting cosmopolitan dishes of our era. 10/10
Bresse-Pigeon from Mieral – This preparation perfectly accented the natural flavors of the fowl. The pigeon’s meat retaining its natural ideal dark texture and a meaty juicy mouthfeel. Delicious pigeon that kept its enjoyable gamey taste vibrant. Another take on this bird also featured on this dish: a perfect pigeon-goose liver flan (you don’t see it on the picture because I ate it way before I thought of taking the picture..Rfaol..) which conception was simply stellar. On the right side of the pic, the little nutty-covered sphere you see was also pigeon’s meat surrounded by hazelnuts (well done). The dots are made of carrot cream (particularly delicious). There was also a jus of smoked tea and spices that — to my surprise — tasted like the best match to the meaty fowl. A bit as if I was telling you that a reduction made of smoked tea & spices & the meat’s sauce was far tastier and made more sense (in mouth) than just the meat’s sauce alone. That was the case, here. 10/10
Nebraska beef – This serving had lots of flavors imparted into the beef with the meat having a smooth melting texture, cooked equally thoughout, fully meaty and shining through pretty well due to non inclusion of extraneous ingredients and a judiciousness of the seasoning that is right on. The sauce is rich and deep, a square of back and short rib (you don’t see it clearly on the picture) was tasty, the Japanese egg plant puree well done, the dots of black garlic adding a nice kick, the overall clever and highly satisfying. 9/10
Champagner Bellini was a collection of sweet creations around peach and raspberry in various renditions: sorbet, mousse, a ragout (of peach). Champagne was additionally poured in the center of the plate. A ravishing dish (really beautiful to espy with its visually pleasant carefully constructed decorative features). Technically, not one single flaw. 9/10
This was the modern and refined take of the kitchen on the theme of a banana split. The chocolate elements had the accurate ratio of cream/chocolate and ideal texture (as firm as it should, with a rich chocolate colour). The chip of banana was packed with addictive fruity flavor. As with all creations of this kitchen: a lot of work is put in the details, the refinement and the delicious taste. A joyous inspired dessert 9/10
An array of top quality petits fours brought an end to this startling dinner experience. This was really stunning food after stunning food and the meal joins my 1995 dinners at JR and Girardet, 2009 dinner at Pierre Gagnaire (Paris) + 2011 meal at L’Ambroisie in my all time favourite 3 star Michelin dining occurrences
Service: It’s amazing to see such a young staff excelling in professionalism and showing such a genuine desire to please their hosts.
Pros: A technically gifted and creative Chef with a vast array of skills. A table of exception where everything is pure exciting perfection. It’s one of those few tables around the world, where I would be tempted to go back again and again. I’ll never be in a position to humanly eat at all existing restaurants in the world, but deep inside of me, if such survey could make sense, this table would get my vote in the top 5 best restaurants of the globe. And it’s not even expensive!
Cons: Nothing wrong.
Conclusion: That was pure genius food. Sure, I love French food and International cuisine (the cooking, here, is mainly high end Franco-Japanese but you can expect touches from other parts of the world as well) as well so I was seduced, but the real reason I fell for this restaurant is Chef Chistian Bau’s exceptional skills. Many Chefs are scared to go beyond the common boundaries. Or when they do it, it’s usually with inconsistencies. But Chef Bau goes ages ahead, blending an impressive quantity of ingredients with astonishing efficiency. Bau is a Genius with a big G!
WHAT I THINK MONTHS LATER: I gathered, from various emails received following this review, that some other restaurants do offer equal cooking performance. When asked what they were, I was in for a surprise: most were tables I was already familiar with and although offering Modern International cuisine, the skills of those kitchen brigades never came close to half of the skills showcased by Chef Bau. It was interesting to observe that the Chefs at the restaurants that are supposedly at the same level of VGSB would do great with 3 to 5 ingredients, but would perform poorly as soon as they would get to the count of 6 or 7 ingredients on the plate. In contrast, Chef Bau could align 8 to 15 elements with stunning precision and harmony as proven on this reported meal. A reminder that what could look similar at first glance do not necessarily have the same depth of mastery behind them.
I don’t see why a flawlessly executed Pizza, Crème Brulée or any other easy-to-make food item that is perfectlty executed would not deserve a 10/10. It has to, when it’s flawless and it stands out. It is NOT about whether perfection exists or not. It is about what is interpreted as the bar (or not) of what has been achieved in oneself’s perception. Furthermore, if you can talk about the good, it implies you know the bad, if you know what’s a 0/10, you should know what’s a 10/10. As for rating a food item, my intent behind it is not to patronize, nor to put down anyone. My sole intent is to ‘convey’ a constructive evaluation of what I am eating at a restaurant. ———
All along my years of cooking practice, I found important to enjoy two roles that are complementary and that all Chefs (and hopefully food critics , too) would benefit from experiencing : sometimes cooking in the kitchen, sometimes enjoying your role as a diner. As the diner, I spent years studying all kind of food rating systems (Michelin, Gault Millau, methods used by food critics, the ‘Good Food Guide’ and plenty others). I came to the conclusion that, since food appreciation is anyways subjective, the only rating that makes sense (to me) is what I think of what I am eating. I’ve adopted a very simple rating system over 10 (ratings over 100 are a real joke as it essentially reveals how the person who tries to assess is afraid of …assessing. Seriously, why the need of a 96.2, 96.3, 96.9…lol. Do you really need to go through such extent to clearly segregate the good from the bad, the excellent from the very good? …there is really nothing credible about that sort of rating) since rating food does not need to be rocket science. Food is food, there’s no need for unnecessary intellectual complication, and all that matters is what we think of what’s in our plates. The only thing you need to ensure is to be as accurate as possible and that can only be achieved by long years of educating your palate, knowing what you are talking about (never, never ever talk about food that you are not familiar with…that shows, as food critics complaining about their food being spicy … only to realize that spiciness is the main feature of the cuisine he was covering..!), do lots of tasting with those in the know, learn from those in the know before assessing food (a common problem with most food journalists and food critics) and of course, while you are at it, cook..cook..and cook, taste ..taste and taste ..so that you better understand the relevant flavor combinations.
Rating food is a piece of cake when you are an ignorant who has no clue about assessing food, but an exercise that requires full concentration and lots of knowledge when you want to make it seriously. Truth be told, when you look at how many food journalists in the west do assess food, you would think that it is not a serious exercise: they seem to know how to segregate a benchmark western food item from an excellent, a very good, a good, an average and a below average one. But they can’t do the same with non western food. Which I gather is normal as they did educate their palate to adequately assess western food solely, but then…why do you assess non western food? I have to say, most food journalists in the western world did contribute to kill the credibility of food assessment, indeed.
One thing I wanted to ensure before I rate food was to ask myself if I have apprehensions? am I prone to preconceived opinions? am I influenceable? close minded? If the answer to those questions would have been affirmative, I would not rate food. And that is why, to take an example, I do not give two bollocks about an eatery being called a tourist trap …because what matters is whether you are good or not. Whether you are a tourist trap or not….that is none of my business (you will be surprised by how many people are prompt to call many places that are cooking great food…tourist traps! …just because there are tourists going there….as if a place that is feeding tourists cannot cook good food. Absurd…)
That said, all food ratings will always be imperfect (though, this should NOT be an excuse for the lame assessments of most of the food journalists of the west) for a very simple reason: while you are there reading what I’ve experienced, I was there eating. The theory Vs practice clash is a first step of the imperfect nature of a review. You would have been eating what I was eating, at the same moment, and there could have been differences in both our interpretations of those same dishes. So imagine what can be lost into the translation of it all. I tried my best to get the rating numbers as accurately representative of my overall impression of the food I eat.
Meals and food items at non-michelin starred ventures will be primarily scored in relation to their closest geographical competitors : for example, scores of a bistrot in Montreal should only be compared to scores of an equivalent bistrot in Montreal and not to a fine dining destination in that same city nor to bistrots abroad. If the score applies to comparative dining scene abroad, I’ll explicitly mention it. Regarding Michelin star ventures, since it is a global standard, my scores encompasses cross continental comparisons : As an example, of a 2 star Michelin restaurant in Hongkong, I expect what I am used to at other equivalent 2 stars Michelin abroad. Whether I should not expect such comparison (of a 2 star Michelin standards in one place Vs the same at another location) — or not –is irrelevant to me since it (Michelin stardards) ‘s supposed to be a global standard in the first place.
Now, the details of my food rating:
Remember, I am reviewing specific dishes on a a given meal. I am all about democratically putting our rating systems to the test of popular criticism, but given their subjective nature (whoever you are, the food item that you found spectacular is just that: a food item YOU found spectacular AT THAT SPECIFIC MOMENT IN TIME…) I believe that it is a nonsense to go over and over the meaning of a given rating system. It will always never be perfect anyways, however you compose it and whoever you are!
The rating system that is covered by this post is the rating of the food solely.
There are two levels of ratings in my reviews: An overall rating as well as individual dish scores.
I. The overall rating – Overall food rating HAS NOTHING TO DO with the arithmetic calculation of the individual courses. It is my personal subjective rating of the meal’s overall performance relatively to the highest standards I am used to at similar dining level/category.
10/10 (A meal that, as a whole, stood out — against the top standards I am used to find at the level of dining / cuisine category in which the reviewed restaurant is competing. Examples of level of dining: 1/2/3 Michelin-star restaurant, Tier 1/2/3 fine dining restaurant, sushi shop, burger place, etc in a specific country or region). Examples of dining category: bistro, fine dining, poutine place, burger place, sushi shop, steakhouse, etc) Such meal is, in relation to what is usually found at its level and in its category, a benchmark meal in all aspects: refined work of the texture, sublime work of the taste, outstanding technique ( WHICH, BTW, DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE RESTAURANT CONSISTENTLY DELIVERS 10/10 MEALS. U MIGHT GO THERE AND IT IS A DIFFERENT COOK COOKING IT FOR YOU. COULD BE THE SAME COOK BUT HE IS NOT IN THE SAME MOOD, ETC — SO ALWAYS BEAR THAT IN MIND . Some rare reviews are tagged as “potential of benchmark food“, which means that the reviewed restaurant is capable, in its prime, of food that would be exceptional even for the very best of their direct competitors. A meal of the highest order. ; 9/10 (An excellent overall meal against the standards I am accustomed to in its category with flawless execution, excellent work of flavors and textures, excellent technique but not a benchmark in comparison to what I have experienced at its level ; 8/10 (A very good / great overall meal in relation to what I am accustomed to in its category with great technique, great work of textures and flavors); 7/10 (A good, NOT great overall meal in relation to what I am accustomed to in its category. Although this is food of a meal that generally showcased potential to easily rise to higher levels); 6/10 (An overall just Ok meal in relation to what I am accustomed to in its category. Without being particularly strong as an overall food performance, this is a meal that somehow managed to ”detach itself from the pack ” with a slight edge either for being technically a bit more consistent than the standard in which it is competing, or for standing out in a particular aspect which detail will be explained in the review of that meal. Either way, it is not an impressive meal, not a severely weak one neither).IMPORTANT EXCEPTION: if you see a meal or a dish that I found technically strong (for eg, great work of textures, superb control of the temperatures, great sourcing) and yet I still rated it with the “less than flattering” score of 6/10, that means the meal or the dish was not what it’s supposed to be (for eg, an Indian meal or dish at an Indian restaurant that has … no Indian flavour profile. I won’t give it a zero, obviously, but it’s NOT what it’s supposed to be and that needs NOT to be encouraged neither…You tell me that you are cooking Indian food, then cook Indian food. You tell me that you are cooking Japanese food, then cook Japanese food. That is it…); 5/10 (An overall average meal in relation to what I am accustomed to in its category , and clearly the entry point to what appeared to me as an overall close-to disappointing meal where technique/taste/texture was lacking.); 4/10 (an overall below average meal in relation to what I am accustomed to in its category. A severely disappointing meal)
II.The rating of each dish – The following is how I rate each dish. This dish per dish rating ‘s purpose being to try my best to convey my real personal appreciation of each of the sampled dishes. I have been cooking for years and was lucky to be part of a family where many have cooking abilities that would put most top Chefs out there to shame, therefore it is hard for me to go to a restaurant just for the excitement of discovering the next new eatery. While reading my reviews, you will need to remember that this is not a restaurant review website to try restaurants, not a traditional restaurant review web site at all, and that is the intent behind it . This is the result of long diligent searches about which restaurant might reach out to my personal expectations as a dining experience that I could perceive as worthy of an effort (to partake in) from my part. It is like spending years finding that exact wine that really sounds to be the standing out pick worthy of a try. As you might expect from such, you should not find lots of bad scores on this web site (PS: do not get me wrong, although a web site like this could make you think that I am picky or elitist, that is not the case at all. To the contrary, you might be surprised by how a simple fully-flavored juicy grilled lobster with a bottle of beer appeals to me way more than any of the best food items at those top world’s tables). Please find my dish per dish evaluation scale:
Exceptional (10/10) – Some evaluators believe that a mark of 10/10 should be omitted, arguing that perfection
does not exist. I am against that way of thinking. Unless all you do is to force your imagination into refuting reality, perfect food item does exist (naturally, relatively to our respective personal expectations)! If to your palate, a given meal reaches the top marks, you should be honest about it! A 10/10 of my standards means a dish that reached, as far as I’m concerned, one of /or the three following conditions: (1) a level of deliciousness — to my palate — that would be hard to improve upon (2)cooking technique that is of the highest consideration (3) a level of creativity that is of the highest consideration, but it needs to be very tasty as well since my primary focus is the pleasure of my palate after all. A very creative dish with no taste will of course suffer from a poor rating, but I’ll insist on underlining its fortes. The quality of ingredients needs to also be superb on such dish. Either way, a 10/10 is of benchmark material and also means the dish had sparks. A food item of the highest level of excitement (the excitement should primarily be palatable, but it needs to be also technical: for example, a superior work of the textures, colours, temperatures, etc – Again, meals being variable by nature, I can only talk for what I had experienced at X given time. Does not mean the same item will be cooked by the exact same persons, in the exact same mood when you will get to sample it). As a rule of thumb, if you see at least two 10/10 dishes in one of my reviews, consider the relevant restaurant as capable of true world class food relatively to what you will find in its category (regardless of what you will think of the other ratings of that review).
Excellent (9/10) -No benchmark material, but perfect (impeccable cooking technique, seasoning, mastery of the temperature, and superb taste) and inspired. Quality of ingredient needs to be impeccable, too.
Very good (8/10 to 8.5) – Great (well cooked, tasty, technically superb). Quality of ingredient needs to be very high. A food item of great level of excitement.
Good (7/10 to 7.5 ) – Good. A dish that remains tasty, the overall been well cooked, technique is good (suitable cooking temperature as well as a work of taste and flavors that are on point) too, but that remains “standard / normal / safe/expected ” (although NOT ordinary at all) for the standard of dining in which it is competing. A food item of good level of excitement.
OK (6/10 to 6.5/10) – A dish with a weak level of excitement, but still acceptable to some extent. Ordinary or close-to ordinary food item with regards to the comparative standards I am accustomed to. IMPORTANT EXCEPTION: if you see a meal or a dish that I found technically strong (for eg, great work of textures, superb control of the temperatures, great sourcing) and yet I still rated it with the “less than flattering” score of 6/10, that means the meal or the dish was not what it’s supposed to be (for eg, an Indian meal or dish at an Indian restaurant that has … no Indian flavour profile. I won’t give it a zero, obviously, but it’s NOT what it’s supposed to be and that needs NOT to be encouraged neither…You tell me that you are cooking Indian food, then cook Indian food. You tell me that you are cooking Japanese food, then cook Japanese food. That is it…)
Average (5/10 to 5.5/10) – Average, forgettable with regards to the standards of dining in which it is competing.
Below average (4/10) – And anything below is what I perceived as simply bad with regards to the standards of dining in which it is competing.
****The overall rating, is the rating that you will see at the top of my reviews of Michelin star restaurants, at the bottom of all my Non-starred Michelin reviews. As for my reviewed Michelin starred meals, you will not fail to notice that whereas there’s usually a big difference betwen a top 3 star Michelin table and a top 2 Star Michelin (usually in the refinement of the texture and the ability to push complexity –either in flavor combination or in technique — further without failing), there are virtually none among the average 2 Vs 3 stars (for ie, a good 2 star can be as good as most standard 3 stars, a very good 2 star as good as a good 3 star and you of course have 2 stars that are simply better than most 3 stars as this applies to any level of dining as well, naturally). I try my best to avoid comparing apples to grapes, so you should not compare my ratings of a progressive kitchen like the Fat Duck (gave my 2009 meal at the FT, an overall score of 9/10), for ie, to my rating of a classic one like L’Ambroisie (a score of 10/10 for my 2011 meal at L’Ambroisie). Both are simply different and since they perform at a very high level of excellence in their respective genre, it is important to understand that my overall rating of their meals is not an observation that one is better than the other (at such level, those folks have reached a level of perfection that’s hard to fault anyways) , but that one catered more to my personal likings.
***What about two dishes with same ratings? How to know which was better, to me ? Indeed, of two similarly-rated dishes, there’s still that possibility that one dish was better than the other, in my view. Answer: just ask!
***How come some reviews do have a “pro” and “cons” section, whereas others do not? If there’s no “pros” and “cons”, it is because there’s no need for it. As simple as that.
***How come some reviews do have a section “overall food rating”, whereas others do not? That is because it had (or not) /it deserved (or not) to be highlighted. As simple as that.
***How do I get an idea of the overall food rating of a meal if you did not mention the overall food rating? In such case, just do the arithmetic calculation of the meal. I generally mention the “overall food rating” in cases where the meal was either a strong performance of an extremely weak display. Which is why I do (generally) not waste my time with median overall food ratings unless it is necessary (for eg, if a restaurant is widely known to perform at 9/10 or 10/10 and my meal at that restaurant was a 6/10 or 7/10, I will insist on the overall food rating of my meal as it was not aligned with its popular ratings).
***What does that mean when you mention that a dish is “interesting” or “pleasant”? And why are those dishes generally not rated? “Interesting” or “pleasant” simply means, in my food rating system, a dish that is not bad but not significant enough to be rated and to be considered in the overall rating of the food.
***How come some dishes are not rated? Because rating those particular dishes would mean nothing. What matters is that you will get, at the end of the day, my general opinion of the meal as well, as, for the most part, an overall food rating.
***Whether it is a Michelin-star table, a laid-back neighbourhood table, food on the street, etc: food is food (whatever goodies, effects, sensation that is propelled around it is irrelevant to its core purpose: it needs to be stunning in mouth!) , so there is no discriminating-rating: it’s exceptional, excellent, very good, good or bad!
***Last but not least: read between the lines….when I use words like “divine food” that obviously means it’s about food that blew away my taste buds, as an ie. If I write “pleasant”, that means it is not bad, but nothing special neither, etc.
In conclusion, here are what I value in a meal: the level of deliciousness / precision of the cooking/technicalities such as the proper temperature, cooking techniques/association between the elements/sparks in taste/ creativity, originality. Again, no creativity nor originality will be valued at the expense of taste! The quality and freshness of ingredients are of course very important, but you can have the best ingredients in hands and not knowing what to do with it…so it all lies in the talent of the Chef (in either transforming the product or in leading the product to express itself at its very best).
The restaurant world, as with most things in life, is of imperfect nature. It is meant, as you and I, to disappoint as many as it might rejoice. It’s as frustrating for a diner to throw a lot of money on a deceiving dinner as it is stressful for a restaurateur to find his work being criticized. But such is the nature of things: when you pay for something, you do expect a return on your investment, nothing less but enjoyment in this case. Talking of impect nature, even our best findings are condemned to sometimes let us down, which is why I won’t stop reminding all of you that all I can guarantee is my opinion on that specific food I am eating at X time and that I am reviewing. The rest is completely out of my control.
No one will ever be in a position to recommend what’s perfect for you. But hopefully, this can help.
An anonymous Montrealer's Michelin Star dinners 
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